i spent quite a bit of time pondering if crocodiles can jump. I did raise this question last night with fellow traveller, only to be met with incredulity. Brooded overnight about it and googled, you should try it, there is stacks in googledom about jumping crocodiles.
This is what it says:Crocodiles can jump while they’re still. They leap from the ground just like a human would. A crocodile’s jump is also more like a forward lunge than a true jump. Despite the fact that it may appear as though a crocodile is leaping up onto land, it actually more closely resembles a horizontal spring. Home goal to me!
This image proves it! I still can’t see what was stopping it making a lunge for us.
Armed guards patrol this area at night. Probably the day time too but less conspicuously. There are 30000 police in Guatemala and 150000 private armed guards. You can hire them quite cheaply. Guatemala does have a different vibe to Costa Rica, here there are 15 murders a day, which is a lot for a relatively small country.
I don’t feel uneasy but there is definitely an undercurrent that wasn’t there in Costa Rica. The people are certainly not happy go lucky, they are lovely but more reserved, which is no wonder given the entrenched poverty and ever present fear of violence. Perhaps that sense of disquiet is pervasive. 25% of the population will have suffered or do suffer mental health issues, only 1% of government budget is spent to support people. There are issues around the stigma associated with mental health and with alarming rates of illiteracy there is no wonder that there is still a belief in possession and evil spirits!
Last night we popped to a supermarket and saw this notice.
Certainly very different from the notices I see in Tesco’s. Not certain how they can enforce not taking your gun out whilst shopping, as the actually laws around gun ownership is pretty vague and has more holes than a colander.
Today we are doing a round trip to Livingston, it is only accessible by boat and is on the Caribbean coast, roughly 20 miles. A truly unique place which brings together the Maya population as well as Garifunas, descendants from the Arawak Indians and former Africa slaves, brought to the Americas. An interesting and vibrant explosion of colours, flavours, etc.
We are travelling downstream along the Rio Dulce, or ‘sweet river’ – where we will take two hours stopping off at various parts and have opportunities to see the wildlife.
We went under the longest bridge in Guatemala, the puente de Rio Dulce. Not desperately long, just 830 metres.
Yesterday Pete walked up the hill near to the hacienda, he saw a few scuttling iguanas and an egret.
We could see this landmark from the boat.
Ghee is quite good with somethings but really incredibly sketchy about other things. He will point out utterly useless things, like a hostel that’s got really great nightlife but being vague about the flora and fauna. He does make up for it with enthusiasm…..just about.
He wasn’t a hundred percent certain about this building but could reel off the best party locations in Rio Dulce, which coincidentally we will never visit again. Not because we don’t like the place, it’s just not likely.
Being on the boat was fantastic and extremely cooling.
We passed buildings, birds and flora. Some dilapidated others looking like mini palaces, a hang out for the rich of Guatemala, mostly politicians.
We stopped by what is known as the water lily village near Aguas Valientes. Apparently quite rare in Guatemala, apart from this region. Ghee said the pink ones are due to faeces in the water. He couldn’t really substantiate this, so another ‘fact’.
We stopped at a restaurant which was nestled by the side of the river. Totally isolated. We would return for dinner later and for a dip in a thermal pool nearby.
Again the ubiquitous notices, no guns etc. I am not certain if it is laid out in order of priority or not, the question still remains, how would you challenge them!
After a refreshing drink it was full steam ahead to Livingston. Immediately the vibrancy and ‘otherness’ hit us, although having never been to the Caribbean it made me feel as though mi had landed on a tropical island. Passing a group of pelicans nonchalantly perched on a delapidated boat and bobbing boats by the dozen.
Our first destination was the Garifuna Cultural Centre, to find out more about these people and their culture. Stories abound as to how the Garifuna ended up on the edge of Guatemala. The one theory that seems to have gathered the most credence is that they originate from slaves which were shipwrecked on St Vincent’s in the Caribbean. They were subsequently booted off the island by the British. As a result they travelled up and down the Central American coast, settling in Guatemala, Belize and Honduras.
Although a relatively small place it was decided that we would need transporting to the place. There are 17 of us travelling together so this is no mean feat.
Our carriage awaited!
I don’t think I have laughed as much for a long time, what a sight for the locals! A Hodge podge of people crammed into the back of a truck, with me at the front frantically waving to all and sundry. Passing fruit stands, fried chicken stalls and avoiding overhanging branches. Seeing avocado, mango and other fruit I couldn’t make out growing alongside the roadway added to the sense of being somewhere very tropical.
The place was closed, so after a few calls Ghee organised a dance class at someone’s house, the day was becoming more and more surreal.
Jumping off the back of the truck we trooped single file behind this building. There was a flurry of activity, the woman rushing off to get changed into suitable attire, her mother quickly pulling the knickers on the washing line,. The children laughing and poking their heads out of doorways, the neighbours seemingly transfixed by the strangeness of all.
Different dances and songs were used for different parts of the Garifuna’s lives, celebrations, working etc. Following the dances it was our turn, which involved a great of hip gyration. A drumming circle of three men was assembled and they proceeded to play punta music. A music that is firmly linked to the struggles the Garifuna have experienced over the centuries.
A group of woman of various ages and sizes all attempting to do something the woman had achieved with seamless fluidity. I was like the proverbial sack of spuds! Then it was the men’s turn, which was side-splittingly hilarious.
Not certain what they are doing here, looks like head, shoulders, knees and toes!
Rammed in like sardines we headed back to the town, passing local cemetery. It was quite difficult to take photos and cling on for dear life! Including a photo of a typical Guatemalan cemetery – famous for their vibrancy.
The friends and family of the deceased get together and paint the tombs in their favourite colour. On All Saints Day on the first of November, the family of the deceased will put on colourful clothes, head to the cemetery to clean and touch up the paintwork. At this time it is not unusual for you to also see colourful kites floating above the tombs, emblazoned with messages, which they believe will reach the dead.
There wasn’t a great deal of time left in Livingston, but enough time to take snaps of the bustling community.
Livingston is supposed to typify the ‘real Guatemala’, a bit rough round the edges but a far cry from places like Antigua.
We passed a community washing area.
This communal wash area is predominantly used for ‘special’ but not necessarily exclusively. If someone dies in their house,friends and relatives will strip all bedding and curtains etc and wash them and by doing so removing any trace of evil spirits.
We had been advised by Ghee to try the local Garifuna tipple of Gifiti. A potent mixture of rum, herbs, roots and spices. It is supposedly great for all many of ailments. I thought it was foul, Pete thought it was wonderful, I think that he was given a different drink to me. My face says it all!
After all this fun and torture at certain points we headed back to Restaurante Agua Calientes or the hot springs restaurant. Wolfed down the breakfast option that did cause some confusion.
Rushed to the thermal pool. Easily found if we just followed the sulphuric odours.
It has to be one of the best things I have done. Concentrated on the experience not on photos. Invigorating!
Random Acts of Travelling 