A lovely sleep, very quiet during the night. I could get used to this! The bed could definitely fit a family of 4 or 5. Pacing ourselves for the day ahead. A great bath, too! They even have really soft, comfortable dressing gowns, too. Luxury !
We decided not to have breakfast included, so we could explore lots of other places. Not only cheaper but definitely more interesting.
On a road, a parallel road to our hotel, we found a cafe that looked like a Romanian ‘institution’. How wrong I was, it was part of a French chain of cafes that have 100s in France and close to 500 worldwide, including Karachi. There is one in London but I haven’t encountered it.
Again, reviews are so polarising. Some were really low. Demonising the staff and a litany of other misdemeanours. Again, we found it absolutely lovely. Staff were solicitous and friendly. So, I am disregarding any review and will make my own mind about things. Although to be honest that’s what I tend to do, pick first, look later.
Pete had a croque madam with no ham, and I had eggs.
It was truly delicious and very decadent, eggs cooked in butter and even better, a beautifully cooked tasty tomato. It was very filling and reasonably priced. We are truly living the high life!
She asked if we wanted cake afterwards……
The receipts in restaurants are odd here. They have the price of the meal and then three options for a tip, depending on what you think of the service and food. Guide books say it isn’t mandatory, but it feels like it is.
With the determination to take it easy, but also with tremendous hypothetical itchy feet, we headed back to the hotel for another break. As we headed back, the flea market stall holders were setting up. I had really wanted to go to the Market of Memories – the best flea market in Bucharest,renowned across Romania. But 45 minutes on public transport would not be in the spirit of taking it easy. Maybe we may come again….
When we left later, we had a quick peek in the hotel’s chocolate shop. We didn’t fully close the door on the way, the shop assistant said it was too cold to be open. Of course, it had to be closed, but I have to say it is warm here, very warm. If it was this hot in the UK there would be much less clothing, but here lots of scarves and big coats.
When you think where we are, it should be fairly warm. I hadn’t realised that Romania had a partial border with Ukraine either.
The Museum of Bucharest is nearby, so we went there. It reminded me of places I visited in East Berlin and Hungary, functional and austere.
We saw lots of artefacts and also an original portrait of Vlad the Impaler.
Whilst he is considered a great ruler in Romania, his methods of ensuring his power were true to the legends that surround him. E dealt with his enemies cruelly, and those close to him as well.
He would impale men through their anus with a blunted stick, until it crushed through their inner organs and came out of their mouth. Done while they were alive, not all were personally undertaken by him, but thousands were performed under his name.
It’s hard to unpick truth from fiction, but apparently, 20,000 people were impaled in a single day. The roads around the country were littered with these bodies, having from trees discarded. It helped to send out a string message to his enemies.
There was also a video of Nixon visiting Romania in 1969. This cemented Ceausescu’s personal image as a leader who wanted to assert himself on the international arena.
We didn’t take photos inside the museum as it would have cost 20 lei, which realistically was not a lot, but on top of the entrance fee, I felt principle I wouldn’t pay. There were things we could photograph, but in the photo opportunity places, there were ‘guards’, with stony, steely demeanours.
As well as being surprised by people smoking indoors, it was quite an eye-opener to see fur coat shops. This was called elegance and to my mind far from elegant. Perhaps a through back to Soviet times when mink was the dream for some women. This and the large number of Mercedes cars flying around the area are at odds with my image of what Bucharest would be like. It seems very cosmopolitan and wealthy.
On a lighter note, I loved taking this photo opportunity!
On the way back to the hotel, I noticed at first the gold glinting against the clear blue sky. It was we later found out a Russian Orthodox church, built originally for Russians living in the vicinity. I think we were drawn to it, as the architecture is at odds with the Romanian buildings. Modelled on the Church of the Twelve Apostles in the Moscow Kremlin.
We went in, so different from churches in the UK. only a few places to sit, with a steady influx of people coming and going, kissing the pictures and crossing themselves. Then, a woman with a headscarf, looking very pious and worthy, would scuttle forward and disinfect it.
We saw what I thought was a christening, but it could have been a 40 day blessing. Sitting there, it all played out like a tableau. It was very beautiful. It wasn’t a static event. The priest took the baby to each station of the cross, lifting it up and down. Then, taking it through one door and out of another. The priest wasn’t austere at all, he looked joyous.
An old man sitting next to me smiled. Reaching forward, he said, Bucharest, Romania, loves you! How lovely I thought. Thank you I said smiling and nodding appreciatively. Deep down I knew that there would be more. Opening his mouth wide, cavernous, with a few discoloured stumps scattered. Hospital, he stated, gesturing for money. Sagely, I nodded, I opened my mouth widely to show the awful state of my teeth. It felt like a Top Trumps situation, ultimately I think I won!
And so…for another lie down!
Knowing that things may be slightly different with my mobility issues, I had booked a mid afternoon treat at the oldest restaurant in Bucharest, the Caru’ cu bere. Starting out as a beer wagon, it progressed into renowned restaurant serving Romanian traditional dishes, still serving beer from the original secret recipe.
It was a truly amazing experience!
There was also a string quartet playing.
As expected, very little vegetarian food, but what there was, was very tasty.
Pete had mixed mushroom stew and polenta, I had cheese salad, and we shared this platter. All washed down with their beer. It was all very relaxed.
Random Acts of Travelling 