Today we planned a trip to the DMZ, the demilitarised area, separating North and South Korea. I never thought when I studied the Korean War for O Level history, I would visit this area of the world. I remember snippets, but it all sounded very confusing, and now looking back, it wasn’t because I was stupid, but it was and continues to be a very complex situation. If only I could reassuremy 16 year old self!
We were off to a flying start, finding the coch without any issue, tutting under our breath at newbie stranglers!
We were the first to board the coach, it helped that we had booked the later trip. Otherwise we would have been very blearly eyed this morning.
The temperature was already ridiculously high. I now know what the Korean messages I have been receiving are, the ones with a haazard sign. There is amjor incident with the weather situation here, it is officially a heatwave.
Even at this time of the day it was scorching, it gradually went up to over 41 degrees by the afternoon, getting dangerously close to 42 degrees. I stopped obsessing after a while, there didn’t really seem a point.
On reflection on the day, we didn’t get to do all the thing we had expected to, but we did quite a few.
Our first port of call was the Korean Penisula Ecological Peace Tourism Centre. Home to quite a few things related to the Korean War as well as that bewteen North and South.
We had time for a bit of a break here, diving into the air-conditioning. Also time to hydrate, with an iced hibiscus tea.
Our tour guide, Hana had amazing English, was warm and informative. She showed us the Mangbaedan Alter, explaining that there two major holidays for Korean citizens, which they spend with families. With many not being with their families, as they were split from them, this is a place they can come and undertake rituals associated with the festivals, knowing that there family members are as close as they can be.
Hana explained that her grandmother was a twin, and that she had been seperated from her twin sister, Suki. This place gave her hope for reunification in the future. Sadly, she died last year and when Hana saw her on her death bed, she thought she was her long lost sister.
Another poignant part of the area was a fairground, for the children, or rather now the grandchildren who visit. So they have a place of joy, and also that there squeals of laughter may be heard on the other side.
After this we headed towards the Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), it is a heavily fortified strip of land running across the Korean Peninsula, serving as a buffer zone between North and South Korea. Established at the end of the Korean War in 1953, it is a 2.5-mile-wide (4-kilometre) area marking the border between the two nations. One positive outcome is that it has become a haven for endangered species and the biodiversityis so wide ranging that it has accidently become a nature reserve.
This where it got more serious, no photos, unless we were told categorically that we could. We had to go through a checkpoint, it remined me in some ways of passing to East Berlin years ago. We had to get our passports scrutinised, by a very , very young looking soldier.
There is mandatory conscription here, all males between 18 and 30 have to do military service. For women, it is whether they want to. Hana had completed military service, as a translator for the UN soldiers, who manage the area. She proudly showed us her uniform.
Having gone through the checkpoint, the next stop was Tunnel Three. This is the Third Tunnel of Aggression, one of four tunnels discovered under the Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) built by North Korea for potential infiltration into South Korea. It is located about 52 km from Seoul. Discovered in 1978.
There was a toss up,walk down a very steep 385 metre tunnel,which was guaranteed to be cold, or stay on the bus. It was quite an easy decision,armed with a hard hat I went down. So steep! Then, a flat walk, ending just 170m from North Korea at the blockade. So close!
North Korea tried to say they had been coal mining, scattering coal dust to authenticate their story. It wasn’t true…..obviously.
We couldn’t take photos inside, so this isn’t mine.
I don’t know how I got up, but I did.
We could take photos outside.
The last uphill walk of the day was to Dora Observatory,on the South Korean side of the 38th parallel. On top of Mount Dora, it provides views of North Korea. Hana stressed that the glass was bulletproof. Again, there are no photos.
The benefit of a hot day was that it was very clear. We could see North Koreas’ flagpole, which was part of the flagpole war, which they won by creating the tallest one in the world, 160m.
We went to Unification Village, also small village, with 133 families. They follow Korean Law but are looked after by United Nations.
Famous for their agriculture, especially their ginseng. Hana explained it was all organic as they didn’t want to use chemicals around the numerous landmines.
Had a sleep on the way back!
Random Acts of Travelling 