Fort Kochi Day One

Lovely sleep. When we got up we were able to see in the light which was fantastic. Beautiful large koi carp and lots of greenery.


We had thought that we would have a lie in but we were up and out early before breakfast. We walked to the nearby Vasco da Gamas, named after a Portuguese explorer called suprisingly enough Vasco da Gama! He arrived in Kochi in 1502 and opened the gates of global trade between Europe and the Malabar Coast, the square stands as a living reminder of those early days of exploration and exchange. Even early in the morning it was very lively and we were able to catch the vibrant fish market.


Lots of local people exercising, although some of the exercises seemed decidely odd. So friendly, many good mornings from passers by, with wide smiles. Truly welcoming.

When we got back we had breakfast. Served by the owners daughter and her mother, in the big kitchen. Fruit, bread and eggs. Simpler but just as tasty as the places we have previously stayed at. Charlotte made a juice drink of beetroot, cucumber and gooseberries. It was warm and not delicious, so I focused on the vitamins going into my body.


The first stop of the morning was a visit to a pharmacist, I think some dust has got into my eye, it is very dusty here just before monsoon period. I got some drops and it feels better!


We got a tuk tuk to Jew Town. The number of tourists here is much lower than normal, so sometimes we have been hassled in a very polite but insistent way. We are  often seen as a bit odd as we want to walk.

Jew Town is more of a famous street near Mattancherry Palace known for its antique shops, cultural relics. Named because of its ties to the Sephardic Jewish community that settled in Kochi centuries ago.Jew Town is a narrow street with a trove of historical relics, bearing witness to bygone eras.

The Sephardic Jews, arrived having escaped Spain’s Edict of Expulsion, arrived during the 15th-16th centuries, establishing a vibrant community intertwined with Kochi’s fabric. Star of David-adorned doorways mark the area as well as vibrant art cafes.

We went to one particular art cafe which was jam packed with all sorts of strange and interesting things but you weren’t allowed to photograph every area, which was a shame.

We went to the 16th century palace nearby, Mantancherry Dutch Palace. Built by the Portuguese and then renovated by the Dutch. One of the most visited places in the city and with good reason. Ceilings with intricate carvings. The floor coloured by a blend of lime juice, plant juices, burnt cocnut shells and egg whites, which gives an appearance of black marble.

This as also been the first time I have seen any Braille in India, in Grade 1. However, enormous, quite high up and with words separated across lines, it doesn’t make for easy reading.

We got a tuk tuk back to the homestay. Our driver had been doing it for 39  years and said he really enjoyed meeting people. Put took a picture of me haggling  with him. Pete thinks I am better at it. Unless something is priced you need to haggle, it is part  of the rich fabric of the country. Prices start at a very inflated price, which even then is cheap for us. But it is the process. Always start 50% below what they ask. It is about not being squeamish, being polite and friendly. Even then you  know that whatever you do you are paying more than the local people and rightly so!

He asked one favour, that we visited a gift shop, as whether we bought anything or not he would get a voucher towards petrol  He was so good humoured about it all that we did do that. I bought a present there but literally had to run out of the shop as the man wanted to dhow me everything and was trying to get me to buy  everything into the bargain.

We popped to some shops here and we got some lovely embroidered cushion covers from Kashmir. Pete’s card didn’t work and also I didn’t have one with me, so the owener took Pete to the nearest ATM on the back of his motorbike. It was hilarious!

Param would have been so angry seeing Pete without a helmet!

Pete took them back to the homestay and I got into a conversation with a young boy, well he was 19, that is young! He said he had come from Uttar Pradesh, which is a northerly state. He said he was from a very small village with no electriicity or internet. He had one friend in Kochi, complaining that there were no tourists and the days were boring. I took pity on him and picked upa little peacock to buy, but he refused point blank and gave it to me as a present. Now when we go past he smiles and waves.

We had a small lunch at the Prakruthi Restaurant, that was incredibly cheap but ook an ordinate amount of time to make. his was  OK as it was really hot outside. They were a place that celebrated the virtues of eating millet. I had a dahl and watermelon juice.

From here we headed toward the Chinese Fishing Nets, (Cheena Vala). These are very iconic here, especially at sunrise and sunset. We were there at sunset but the light going down was opposite to the nets so it wasn’t quite as dramatic, but still great to be there, as it is a very lively place with lots of families and people fishing. They stand at ten metres high, and use a cantilever system.

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