I am getting a bit annoyed  with WordPress, but trying to be relaxed about it.

So…continuing with the Kerala Folklore Museum,  I really liked some heads which were painted showing the Theyyam Face Writing. I used some of my birthday money to buy one. 

On the way back to Fort Kochi we got the normal ferry, a few less frills but absolutely fine. The Water Metro cost 50 rupees and the ferry cost 6 rupees. So the difference between 40p and and less than a penny!

We walked back to the homestay, passing places we hadn’t been to before.

I passed a brightly coloured house and the old woman saw me looking, so I gestured that I loved her house.She pointed at the picture and then to herself and indicated it was her! I asked for a photo, which she happily obliged.

I absolutely love this photograph! The colours and vitality and her strength!

There are so many murals in Fort Kochi, it is hard not to turn a corner and not see one. I wanted to know why soI looked it up, linked to the lasting impact of the Kochi-Muziris Biennale, which transformed the streets into open galleries. as a way to make art democratic and available to all.

After a break we went to the sea shore and got some very tasty sev puris.

While I got these Pete got two drinks from two young boys. They treated the drinks like cocktails. Using a cocktail maker, shaking and flipping it in the air.

A sit down on the beach and some friendly dogs. I felt very ambivalent as they seem really good here and not all scabby and covered in tumours etc. I was a bit conflicted, so I just sat quietly.

Later that evening we saw a man feeding some in another place. He said he had been doing it for decades. That he had been part of a charity which had since folded but that he kept  doing it. Many had been sterilised due to his efforts. He wouldn’t take any money to help, indicating that it was a passion of his and he didn’t want any donations. There are some very good people in the world!

                        

After yet another rest, we headed towards Seagull, a bar that was situated  on the riverside. We made it for 6, as this should have been the time that beer could be served. But than again as we walked there we passed lots of polling booths with queues outside. I could not imagine this in the UK and that is sad as it is so important  to have your voice heard in whatever  way.

As a reult the bar didn’t open until 6.30. It was such a lovely cooling beer, accompanied with spicy paneer anda paratha.

Having finally had some amber nectar we went to the Kathakali Heritage Centre, which is another place that King Charles has visited. We listened to an amzing singer and tabla player. Haunting and evocative, keeping the traditions alive.

After this we went to the polar opposite and went to a lovely bar called Francis, where the bright young things frequented. There were two pub singers, one who sang Coldplay and another who sang Elvis songs. A bit surreal. But also it made me very sad. It was a song that I link to my father and it was the anniversairy of his death. I know he would have been so interested in my travels, maybe  worried but definitely engaged.

Yet more technical issues which I am not going to let spoil anything or get stressed about. All is good. Our flights are still going ahead and that has been something that has been lingering over our heads.

Yesterday I didn’t finish everything that happened. We went to a Jain Temple, a form of  Hinduism that seems very strict. Lots of rules. I was given a bright neon pink scarf, not to cover my head, but my shoulders, which was quite odd. We couldn’t go in if we were menstruating, which is lucky because we weren’t.

We were given  a tour by a woman, we had to canter behind her as she was quite sprightly! No photos from the inside. 

We saw lots of swastikas, including a women withinthe temple making them out of rice. It is an ancient, sacred symbol representing good fortune. It represents the four directions or Veda.

We had a bit of a walk and I took probably far too many pictures but I want to remember it all!

Tea yesterday was lovely, a paneer ‘fest’. With a bit of blue sauce, which must be derived from the blue flowers we saw in the spice farm as it is used widely. The non alcoholic drinks are very imaginative and the apple mojito I had was delicious!

After another good sleep we were set for another day of adventures, we were determined to try out some of the local transport options, other than a tuk tuk. 

Breakfast was quite  different today, a group of 10 South Africans! We had  to be sociable. We haven’t really talked  to many people since being here and it wasn’t something that I  yearned  today. The beetroot concoction wasn’t as bad today!

We set off early and caught the Kochi Water Metro, a fleet of 78 hybrid  electric boats, an attempt to  reduce the numer of cars etc onthe roads and use the waterways  more effectively.

An interesting  smooth journey that took us to High Town. Then a  bus, that was not crowded  and then a tuk tuk to the Kerala FolkloreMuseum. King Charles has visited it! One man’s passion to collect arefacts over a 35 year period so that they wouldn’t be lost. 

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Lovely sleep. When we got up we were able to see in the light which was fantastic. Beautiful large koi carp and lots of greenery.

We had thought that we would have a lie in but we were up and out early before breakfast. We walked to the nearby Vasco da Gamas, named after a Portuguese explorer called suprisingly enough Vasco da Gama! He arrived in Kochi in 1502 and opened the gates of global trade between Europe and the Malabar Coast, the square stands as a living reminder of those early days of exploration and exchange. Even early in the morning it was very lively and we were able to catch the vibrant fish market.

Lots of local people exercising, although some of the exercises seemed decidely odd. So friendly, many good mornings from passers by, with wide smiles. Truly welcoming.

When we got back we had breakfast. Served by the owners daughter and her mother, in the big kitchen. Fruit, bread and eggs. Simpler but just as tasty as the places we have previously stayed at. Charlotte made a juice drink of beetroot, cucumber and gooseberries. It was warm and not delicious, so I focused on the vitamins going into my body.

The first stop of the morning was a visit to a pharmacist, I think some dust has got into my eye, it is very dusty here just before monsoon period. I got some drops and it feels better!

We got a tuk tuk to Jew Town. The number of tourists here is much lower than normal, so sometimes we have been hassled in a very polite but insistent way. We are  often seen as a bit odd as we want to walk.

Jew Town is more of a famous street near Mattancherry Palace known for its antique shops, cultural relics. Named because of its ties to the Sephardic Jewish community that settled in Kochi centuries ago.Jew Town is a narrow street with a trove of historical relics, bearing witness to bygone eras.

The Sephardic Jews, arrived having escaped Spain’s Edict of Expulsion, arrived during the 15th-16th centuries, establishing a vibrant community intertwined with Kochi’s fabric. Star of David-adorned doorways mark the area as well as vibrant art cafes.

We went to one particular art cafe which was jam packed with all sorts of strange and interesting things but you weren’t allowed to photograph every area, which was a shame.

We went to the 16th century palace nearby, Mantancherry Dutch Palace. Built by the Portuguese and then renovated by the Dutch. One of the most visited places in the city and with good reason. Ceilings with intricate carvings. The floor coloured by a blend of lime juice, plant juices, burnt cocnut shells and egg whites, which gives an appearance of black marble.

This as also been the first time I have seen any Braille in India, in Grade 1. However, enormous, quite high up and with words separated across lines, it doesn’t make for easy reading.

We got a tuk tuk back to the homestay. Our driver had been doing it for 39  years and said he really enjoyed meeting people. Put took a picture of me haggling  with him. Pete thinks I am better at it. Unless something is priced you need to haggle, it is part  of the rich fabric of the country. Prices start at a very inflated price, which even then is cheap for us. But it is the process. Always start 50% below what they ask. It is about not being squeamish, being polite and friendly. Even then you  know that whatever you do you are paying more than the local people and rightly so!

He asked one favour, that we visited a gift shop, as whether we bought anything or not he would get a voucher towards petrol  He was so good humoured about it all that we did do that. I bought a present there but literally had to run out of the shop as the man wanted to dhow me everything and was trying to get me to buy  everything into the bargain.

We popped to some shops here and we got some lovely embroidered cushion covers from Kashmir. Pete’s card didn’t work and also I didn’t have one with me, so the owener took Pete to the nearest ATM on the back of his motorbike. It was hilarious!

Param would have been so angry seeing Pete without a helmet!

Pete took them back to the homestay and I got into a conversation with a young boy, well he was 19, that is young! He said he had come from Uttar Pradesh, which is a northerly state. He said he was from a very small village with no electriicity or internet. He had one friend in Kochi, complaining that there were no tourists and the days were boring. I took pity on him and picked upa little peacock to buy, but he refused point blank and gave it to me as a present. Now when we go past he smiles and waves.

We had a small lunch at the Prakruthi Restaurant, that was incredibly cheap but ook an ordinate amount of time to make. his was  OK as it was really hot outside. They were a place that celebrated the virtues of eating millet. I had a dahl and watermelon juice.

From here we headed toward the Chinese Fishing Nets, (Cheena Vala). These are very iconic here, especially at sunrise and sunset. We were there at sunset but the light going down was opposite to the nets so it wasn’t quite as dramatic, but still great to be there, as it is a very lively place with lots of families and people fishing. They stand at ten metres high, and use a cantilever system.

Having a few technical difficulties with WordPress, which overall is better than having real problems.

I last mentioned that the political election fever pitch it raising and even on the waterways boats  with flags and loudspeakers went past.  This is the last day that they can do it.

We later found  out when we reached Kochi that they take lots of additional steps to ensure the election goes smoothly. One of them being that alcohol is banned everywhere for 48 hours, until 6pm on the 9th April. Some of this is again linked to bribery, to stop alcohol being a leverage with some. Apparantly candidates previouslywould let alcohol flow freely and this would skew votes. I don’t think even if I was bribed with a whole brewery I would vote for reform.  Another slant on this is that the illegal production of alcohol is big business, with no legatimate ways of getting alcohol, the illegal kind flies off the ‘shelves’ and this provides last minute funds for candidates. Whatever the reason I felt sad that we couldn’t have a cold beer when we arrived in Kochi. Added to  that because of all the rallies there was one detour after another, adding to the journey time by an hour.

Param picked us up after the boat ride. It had been a great experience and despite the large dinner, we still had space for spicy fried bananas and coffee!

We don’t know what Param did over all the time we were  on the boat. Initially  we thought he had quite a bit  of English, but it became obvious over the journey that it was quite limited He had a repetoire of the same phrases and words. He would continously point out temples, coconut trees, rice fields etc, then as we moved into Kerala it would be churches. Any  direct questions would be met with ‘yes, yes’, whatever the real answer could be. He was lovely though.

After the boat trip he wanted to stop off at a few more places on the way to Kochi.

Not far from where the boat trip was in Alappuzha, he stopped at Marari beach, golden sands and turbulent waves. Pristine and lined with coconut trees. I loved the juxtaposition of the cross and the flag, in many ways summing up this area!    

Param then stopped at another church. All churches for him were very famous. Everything for him was famous, all universities, schools etc etc. We said would stop as I was interested to look at the political rally, But by the time we got out of the car most of it had dispersed. I had always thought that this deep rooted religious identity was linked  to colonialism but it predates European influence. In Kerala alone they run 30,000 schools, hospitals etc.

Education is seen as the ticket out of poverty. But nowadays things are changing as the number of graduates is outweighing the number of job opportunities. The pressure to be the best of the best is huge.

Eventually we reached Kochi. So so different from the cities in Tamil Nadu.  Glitzy westernised shops, KFC, MacDonalds etc. Also as we moved further into Kerala there were other shifts, dogs on leads, vets, pet shops. 

We reached our place that we would call home for the next few days. Based in Princess Street, Fort Kochi, quite the place to be we later found out. 

Walton’s Homestay, a family run guest house. A Dutch house nearly 300 years old.The reception area doubles up as a library, which doubles up also as second hand book shop. It is quirky! 

We said our goodbyes  to Param, it felt sad.

Tired and hungry we ate at the first place we could find. A pizza restaurant, with a scooter inside and all things Italian, which was a bit incongruous.

Another lovely sleep! With the pool just next to to our bungalow it was easy to jump in. At 7 in the morning there were no other people in it, so we felt very spoilt. Very tranquil!

We were not leaving until  11, so today was very relaxing. A glorious breakfast, which consisted of pretty much everything you would want and more. Sweet lassi to drink, freshly made omelettes, fresh vadu, fruit and even a cheeky little strawberry milkshake, which had the nostalgic taste of Nesquik.

We did a bit of bird bothering, too!

We had another opportunity to play  table tennis, which meant I got thrashed again. We talked about coming back here when we are much older, staying three  weeks or so and being pampered over out winter months, which seems a great idea, as it was only about 40 pounds a night.

Param picked us up and we travelled towards where we would have a houseboat for the afternoon. Kerala is just so different to Tamil Nadu in so many ways, the housing, the roads, the pavements, pretty much everything. I think if I were to describe it, I would say it is definitely India, but with the edges smoother, in fact smoothed and rounded and polished. We could see why we could spot more white people now, it is more geared to Western tastes, but there was a rawness around Tamil Nadu that was challenging and engaging in equal measure.

We had the option to stay on a houseboat overnight, but opted for just an afternoon, and that was a good call, it was just what was needed.

I hadn’t appreciated how big it would be, it was huge, we had a bedroom, if we wanted a lie down, a bathroom, dining room and a settee.

We were greeted by the captain of the boat and introduced to the cook. They would set off once the vegetables from the market were delivered.

We were hemmed in by other houseboats, but after a bit of wrangling managed to navigate out. The captain seemed very chilled, especially as he had  group of ‘back seat drivers’ on the path next to the boat, shouting what to do.

A fresh glass of lemon juice and a relax into the comfy settee. Before booking this part of the trip I had envisaged that it would be like wehen we were in Costa Rica , which was more of a wildlife trip. This wasn’t like that, the backwaters had so many houseboats snaking up and down, including party boats. It also had locals going backwards and forwards with shopping, building supplies etc.

But despite this, cocooned on the boat it felt like we were the only ones on the water. The rythmic movement and the hum of the engine had me almost nodding off.

Eventually we stopped and a banquet appeared on the dining table. All vegetarian. Coconut fry, vegetable curry, dahl, poppadoms, salad and fresh pineapple. They had also made long bean curry that was delicious. Here it is Achinga Payar Thoran, a semi-dry coconut based stir-fry made with mustard seeds, curry leaves, and yard long beans. All such intense and fresh flavours.

Along the way we saw people washing their clothes and themselves on the edge, a boy swimming with his pet dog, and by now the constant blaring out of polical slogans from loudspeakers.

We later found out when we passed rallies and cavalcades of hundreds of motorbikes with flags attached fluttering defiantly. It is because in Kerala this is the last day that parties can drum up support.

I don’t

 

We had a wonderful sleep at Chrissie’s Hotel. At 6 in the morning we were woken by chanting from the nearby yoga room. A thermos flask of hot water had been left outside our room, so we could make coffee. It certainly felt idylic.

A quick pack up and breakfast. Fresh sourdough, homemade jams and fruit. Param joined us and the world felt good.

A car journey of about 3 hours towards Kottyam. With a few stops on the way. As soon as we left Thekkady  we started moving through Munnar, the tea garden of India. The earliest known entry for planting of tea in Kerla is 1875. The tea plant requires a warm and humid climate, with plenty of rain. Kerala ticks all these boxes. On the slopes of the Western Ghats, the elevations of between 300 and 2,300 metres makes for perfect growing conditions. 

The bushes thread across the mountinside, blanketing the slopes, with little paths that the pickers can navigate around.  

We stopped and walked up a path and saw tea pickers in action and asked to take a photograph. We asked people if we can take their photos while we are here, everyone has been very gracious about it and often ask to have photos with us! I also made Pete and Param pose by an early tea machine.

Round windy roads our next stop was at the impressive St Francis Mount Monastery. Nestled in the hills of Pambanar, Peermade in the Idukki area of Kerala. One of the people theresaid that there had been a vision of the Virgin Mary in the early 2000s but I haven’t found any infomration about it.

We also stopped at a small town where I got some reading glasses, I broke mine a few days ago and really struggled. We also stopped for a drink, with a view that was breathtaking.

Arriving at our hotel, Abad Whispering Pines, we were met with the same hospitality as we have received in most of the places we have stayed at. A chilled drink and a warm smile. The hotel is located on the banks of the pristine Vembanad Lake, Kerala’s largest lake.

We had a bit of break. You can see how happy Pete was.

Then had a private boat tour round the lake, which was a lovely peaceful experience. We saw lots of bird life.

But I was particulary excited to see an otter, sliding graefully into the water. A good  indicator  of a heathy aquatic ecosystem. Whilst this is fantatsic it has also led too more contact with humans and apparantly there have been noted quite a few attacks on residents and fishermen alike.

After this we had a swim, pool to ourselves! Followed by free coffee and pakora. We have to remember to include curry leaves in ours, as the introduction very much heightens the taste experience.

A change of clothes and an opportunity to lounge and listen to traditional music.

This  was followed by an evening meal. We hadn’t eaten since 8,00am in the morning, so by this time we were utterly starving. So not many  photos. Really tasty chilli cauliflower and yummy puddings. 

A quick game of ping pong and so to bed!

I had a lot of technical issues yesterday, so didn’t go into much detail about what happened. The main thing is that we ended up in a much better situation. So when we left the other place it wasn’t a big argument but there were moments that felt a bit surreal.

One of the sons of the owners said that the insects were OK as their bite was a bit acidic and it would be fine. What a great expereince to be lying in bed have zillions of acidic bites.

The other  thing was that we had categorically said that we would go to the other hotel under our own steam, as it was just down the road, in the centre of the town. The next thing we know they have somehow rung Param and he drives up. It felt like Param was disappointed in us, he said why didn’t we take another room which had been offered.

We were wary of that as that would have been the point of no return if that was similar.

This was the best decision we made that day. Although in the centre of town it was on a road paralell behind it, and nestled in greenery.

All I can say it was AMAZING!!

We  were warmly welcomed by Adel, chilled drinks brought to us. Adel explainedthat he had lived in Dorset but the weather hadn’t suited him, which is no shock. We later  found out that his wife is German and he is Eygptian. He has really friendly and enthusiastic in   an infectious way, not a jarring way. The wifi code was called ‘keep smiling’ , which kind of sums up the experience.

An eco hotel, solar powered, there were so many touches that enhanced this ethos. Bee hives as we alked to our room. The hotel was bright and vibrant, with origina wall paintings throughout. Adel explained that they let volunteers  stay there from around the world, who stayed for free but left their artwork imprinted  on the walls.

We had a balcony and both sides looked out over trees and birdlife. He did say to be careful about monkeys! They are very cheeky, he said!

This was such a good choice. Originally I had thought being up on the hillside but being more central worked out perfectly. Maybe we needed this experience more.

We freshened up and headed  to a bar I had read up about, which was just a few minutes walk away. Only literally a few miles from Tamil Nadu, Kerela is like a completely different world. So much cleaner, no beggars, everything structurally better. Param explained that everyone was more educated here, but I read about it later, the states have adopted  different economic models, Kerala is more people centred, Tamil Nadu more money driven which benefits the few.

The Moose  and Malt is a covered rooftop bar. We haven’t drunk here much, two reasons, no access and actually not wanting to. The heat doesn’t always make you think of having a drink.

But here it felt different. Chilled beer glasses and a KIngfisher beer, with a bowl of ‘hot chips’ with fried curried leaves. That beer tasted like the best beer I had ever had, much needed. In the background 70s and 80s videos on the big screen. It was strange to be listening to ABBA, drinking beer at the top of a building in beautiful Thekkady.

We had tickets booked for a traditional dance show. I don’t think I have laughed so much and for so long for ages. We experienced Kerala’s rich heritage through a captivating performance of  Kathakali’s mesmerizing art form. Kathakali is renowned for its elaborate, mask-like makeup, vibrant costumes, and stylized gestures. It combines storytelling (often from Hindu epics), music, and precise, silent acting to portray the battle between good and evil. A lot of facial movements.

The first part of the show was an explanation of the art form, one which takes years to perfect and is normally passed down through the family to continue with. Lots of strange  exaggertated facial movements. Towards the end of this they got a few women up onto the stage to try to do what the dancer/ actor did. Which obviously ended up in a lot of laughter. 

When they left the stage the dancer/actor set his sights on Pete. There was no way he could say no. He went, gamely trying to emulate to facial movements and gestures.

He was very good!

After this we did a bit  of shopping and went back to the bar. It would have been rude not to as we walked past it.

The vibe had completely changed, cricket on the big screen and beating techno music. I really enjoyed this. More beers and delicious momos.

Getting back to the hotel we decided to have a midnight swim, which was at 10 o’clock.  We were the only ones there. Magical!

    

As this is fast becoming a homage to all things food in this region of India, I omitted a drink we tried.

Param was very clear we should try the famous Madurai drink Jigarthanda, which he will be very pleased to hear that we tried.

We tried it in a nearby mall.

It really was delicious! It’s roots in Madurai, which Param is very proud it! A blend of local culture and outside influence. Made frkm badam pisin(almond gum) a natural coolant found in Tamil Nadu Nannari syrup made from Indian sarsaparilla root and milk boiled slowly over hours and hours. A caramelized. Jigar means heart in Persian/Urdu, thanda means cold in Hindi. So Jigarthanda literally means cold heart, a drink meant to cool your body from the inside. It felt like a huge kick of sugar.

We left the hotel that had Christian paintings on every floor, which seemed out of place.

Then Hindu touches like flowers in bowls.

Another great breakfast to set us up for the day. We were at breakfast early, so were the first to have medu vada fresh off the press.

They are south indian savoury donuts, known for their crispy exterior and soft, fluffy interior. Well in Britain they are never fluffy, these were the fluffiest of the fluffiest. Made from a spiced batter of fermented urad dal or rice, the doughnut-shaped fritters are traditionally enjoyed for breakfast or tea time with coconut chutney and samba. Or to be honest anytime!

We had one last photo opportunity.

Today felt like it was going to be a really good day hopefully. We were going to visit Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary. It is also known as Periyar Wildlife Periyar National Park, one of India’s most celebrated wildlife reserves, famous for its elephants, rich biodiversity, and the scenic Periyar Lake. Thinking about the rich diversity across India, that this is considered one of the best ones is exciting.

But things didn’t go to plan. We didn’t go into the bit with tigers. A long laborious story which to be honest would put most minded people to sleep. We are staying in the national park fringes and so have got some of the perks.

These were all Pete’s photos, he was quicker off the mark than me.

On our way here Param stopped at a roadside temple, had a red dot on his head by one of the holy men. Today is a festival, but to be honest it is a country that moves effortlessly from one festival to another.

Param got us some sweet pongal, or sakkarai pongal, which is a traditional South Indian sweet pudding made from rice, moong dal and jaggery, flavoured with cardamom, ghee, cashews, and raisins. Most street vendors and temples etc wrap things up in newspapers. It was yet again delicious, another dish ticked off on our culinary journey.

The landscape became lusher mile by mile as we left Madurai behind. Passing fields of rice, mangoes, aubergines etc. India seems to have surprises around every corner, in seemingly desolate areas. We passed a group of energetic drummers, identically dressed, except for a gorilla. Param explained it was a family festival, as if there aren’t enough! Not certain how the gorilla fitted in, it had an air conditioning unit in its  bottom.

We stopped at an market, which Parman said was very famous. I think it was the first one we have been to that sold meat. Goats heads staring back at us blankly,

Vineyards are a growing  business, strictly managed by the government, with less than 20 per cent made into alcohol and the other eighty per cent made into jams, chutneys and juices. We stopped at a vineyard that had been made into a small scale theme park, with zip wires etc. On their website they say,’What began as a simple concept of farm visits has grown into a trusted and memorable stop for thousands of visitors every month. ‘

A little rest break, which was much needed!

It is the buildup to the election and it  seems already at a fever pitch, despite being a few weeks away. You gaze at the idyllic scenes along the way, woman colectig jasmine flowers (although it must be utterly back breaking!) Families sat outside their houses eating together, people praying at the temples along the road side and then it is broken by blasting jarring music and political declarations, blaring out enormous loudspeakers at ear splitting decibel levels. Trucks belonging to the various contenders , their messages ringing through the air. Then there is a police presence, not overbearing but enough for you to notice. Stopping vehicles and checking people for money, which needs accounting for, as otherwise it can be seen as money received as bribes from one of the political parties.

Back in  the car and we passed lots of different farms, including rice fields. This time we saw huge amounts by the roadside, drying out, being bagged up and put on the back of trucks.

Leaving the flat plains we moved towards and into the Western Ghats. Also known as Sahyadri. !,600km of mountains which run paralell to India’s western coast. Through Gujarat, Goa, Kerela and Tamil Nadu, to name but a few areas. A UNESCO World heritage site, one of the top of the worlds eight biodiveristy hotspots, with 5,000 plant species and 30% of India’s species.

At the  top of the mountain range  we passed one spice farm after another. Eventually we stopped by one, and were greeted by one of the owners, called  Rashad.

The moment we arrived we were met by a multitude of aromas, cinnamon, pepper, cloves, wrapping around us like an aromatic shawl. We were led along, narrow, shaded paths, whilst Rashad explained each plant to us and its medicinal purpose.

One of the workers walked past, which a huge branch of bananas slung across his shoulder.  Rashad gave us one of them each, the freshest we have ever eaten and not suprisingy no comparion to the ones in the supermarkets. All of this with the steady hum of the cicadas around us like the forests heartbeat.

We tasted the various spices, thier homemade chocolate, their sugared ginger and their roasted cashew nuts. We took out a bank loan and bought a few things.

We were closer to our hotel, which I was very excited about. We had what we thought was a boat rideto see tigers. There was some level of miscommunication which I will pick up wth when we get back home.  In some respects I was annoyed but then I saw the hoardes of people  being ushered onto coaches, onwards to the boats. It was very boisterous  and I can’t imagine any animal from a 10 km radious would have not been able to hear them!

As a result we headed to the hotel. We d be staying in some kind of treehouse, reached by a bridge. It all sounded so good on paper as these things often do! We were greeted by a very tactiturn male receptionist, no real reception, no chilled drink. Nothing!

It looked so lovely, maybe a bit smaller than expected but very nice. Then….we went into a bathroom, there were so many insects, a literal black carpet of them on the floor.  We washed them down the shower, drowning them humanely.

We obviously expected some bugs but this was completely off the scale.

We decided to walk up the high incline to find a cafe. Strangley Param popped up and stopped the car so we had a lift to the top with him, which was lucky as it was about 2 km. It wasn’t really a cafe more a road side stop. But that said the owner led us through his kitchen, which was clean, through his backyard, to a viewing station that we had to  climb stairs to. A table and chairs laid out and the most spectacular view!

We had a bread omlette each with tomato sauce. Spiced egg mix with diced onions, wrapped round two slices of bread. It was actually quite tasty.

Feeling full we headed down the hill, thankfully, to the hotel. When we got there , there was no electricity. Again that wasn’t an issue, as this has been an issue elsewhere.  When the lights did come on, to our shock the bed was alive  insects. It was horrible. We called the reception but they were in no rush to come over. At that point I decided that we couldn’t stay there. Within minutes I had booked somewhere else, which was  cheaper and in the centre of town.

We got all  our money back, no shouting just reason, and it worked.Well that and me saying if we didn’t we hd photo  eveidence that

47s

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opular, high-protein street food breakfast made by cooking whisked eggs mixed with finely chopped onions, green chilies, cilantro, and spices (turmeric, chili powder) on i a tawa (griddle). Bread slices are dipped in the mixture and folded inside the omelette,

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We have put our trust firmly with Param today. He had organised a tour with a local man called Vijay. We had to meet him at 6 in the morning, which felt inhuman. I had very low expectations but it was a well considered plan. Although Madurai is the city that never sleeps, there are tines which are relatively quieter,so walking around is easier. Also there are only certain things you can see at this time of day. A 2 and a half hour trip on foot!

When we left the hotel it was still dark.

We followed Vijay down a labyrinth of passageways, favoured as locations for Bollywood films.

As it was so early in the morning, the women of the houses were already out. Washing the front entrances to their houses.

Pulli kolam is a ubiquitous art form in south India. Kolams are a symbol of auspiciousness. It is Hindu belief that that the geometrical patterns and designs applied with rice flour at the entrance to a home, invites Goddess Lakshmi into the household, and drives away the evil spirits. It is mostly practised widely in Tamilnadu.

I kept thinking that the local women must have competitions and the best get to do the ones outside the temples.

As we turned the corner we were greeted with a vision of a man, milking his cow in the narrow built up passageway. It was quite surreal. Cows are sacred, so they are not killed. The male ones are shipped off to work on the farms. Calves are kept with mothers. Milk collected in large metal containers, then cycle or walk round, ringing a bell to let people know that they are there.

I really enjoyed giving the calf a bit of a stroke.

As we left this quiet passageway we entered the hustle and bustle of the fruit and vegetable market.

It was so busy and everyone smiled and didn’t seem to mind our interest. I saw one man balancing a large basket on his head. We caught each other’s eye, he started showing off, moving his arms and legs up and down. All the while keeping the basket perfectly balanced.

He was so funny!

Vijay was really good at pointing things out in an engaging way.

Madurai is built round a large temple. Enormous! Covered in scaffolding. Every 12 years it is erected round the temple, painted again, which takes 2 years.

Closer to the temple are stalls selling yellow paste from large blocks.

This yellow paste is primarily tumeric paste (Pasupu or Haldi), often mixed with water, lime, or sandalwood to form a thick paste for rituals. It is considered sacred, auspicious, and therapeutic, used for applying on the forehead (tilak) or offering to deities to invoke health and prosperity. The owners put some sandalwood oil onto the palms of our hands which smelt divine.

Definitely smelling better than we had done moments earlier, we proceeded to the onion market. A street lined both sides with onions, carefully categorised by class.

There were also a few selling various varieties of garlic and one stallholder gave us a bulb each. It was odd seeing one vegetable sold over such a wide area. But then we went to the banana market and that was even huger.

Vijay said that they are stored behind the stallholders in a pitch black storeroom. A small fire is started, the bananas go in green and come out yellow.

After a two hour walk, Vijay treated us to a small breakfast of masala dosa, really buttery and crispy. As well as coffee,served in metal, so really hot. You get a little bowl and a beaker, both metal and pour from one to another to cool it down.

I was making a mess of it, so the waiter stepped in expertly showing me how it should be done.

As we were leaving the restaurant, another religious procession passed us by.

On the way back to the hotel Param was very keen on taking us to a statue of Pennycuick. So keen in fact that he went down a one way road the wrong way. Param has said repeatedly that Pennycuick is seen as a god in this part of India.

He was an engineer employed by the British Army. When funds ran out and the British Government refused any more money, he famously sold his house in England to complete the Mullaperiyar Dam. Revered to this day as the dam allowed the irrigation of 100,000 of land. So farmers see him as a god for this reason. Every year there is a celebration of his birthday and Parman told us that Pennycuick’s descendants still attend after all these years. Later in the day it was good to know that not all the British were monsters.

Returning to the hotel we partook in breakfast number 2, meeting with Parman later in the day.

Creamy oatmeal, fruit, a cheeky do nut, and an even crispier, more buttery masala dosa.

We had a break for a few hours and caught up with the Indian soap opera. Which all seem very slapstick.

Our first stop with Param was to the Thirumalai Nayakkar Mahal, a 17th century palace. With 20 metre pillars and and enormous courtyard, it felt like a film set.

Our next stop was Gandhi’s museum. After that a temple. We had a discussion with Param and said we would like to go to the temple of shopping. He said that was fine but we should end our day with him by being delivered to two rickshaws drivers.

The Gandhi Museum was closed for refurbishment but we were able to see a temporary picture gallery of the growth of the Gandhian movement. As well as a mock up of the simple house he used to live in. Some of his ashes are also there and we were also able to go to this contemplative area.

It was difficult reading about, in some way being part of what happened. I felt shame to be honest.

I wish we hadn’t agreed to the rickshaws ride. After visiting the museum it just felt like white privilege.

We saw a lot on the way including the textile market.

They dropped us back at the hotel, where we had the swimming pool to ourselves.

The food continued to be amazing into the night. The best pani puri I have ever eaten!

Another day, another adventure. We had to cover quite a bit of distance today, so we were in the car for slots of an hour and a half with long breaks. This country is an assault on all the senses and it feels impossible to keep up with everything!

We had a breakfast of red banana and watermelon on the verandah.

Then headed to the reception to meet with Param, with our infeasibly large room key. It even had bells on it.

Brihadisvara Temple was our first of the day. In many ways we should be templed out but they are all quite different and we have unique experiences in each one.

This is the tallest one in Tamil Nadu rising over 60 metres and over a 1000 years old, frescos, sculptures etc. Made out of granite that is not local to the area, the top stone thought to weigh 81 stone.

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Param gave us lots of opportunities to stretch our legs and each time became a photo opportunity.

In one place we were asked for money from a very smily person who described themselves as half man and half woman. They form the Hijra community within South Asia, a traditional, organised subculture. Whilst there is legislation that recognises the ‘third gender’,they are still marginalised, discriminated against and lack employment opportunities.

We stopped at a road side cafe, Param is very particular about where he takes us. A welcome chai tea and deep fried banana, which tasted much better than they looked. Param had a battered Desi egg. Desi eggs are smaller, richer country eggs.

We passed old English forts atop rocky outcrops, symbols of a time gone by.

We passed drumstick trees, which Param always liked pointing out. Indian viagra, he would shout with glee.

Param pointed out a temple on top of a other rocky outcrop. There 437 steps to reach the top, I chanted in my head, please no, please no, please no!

Luckily he carried on driving, my relief was palpable. I think in the heat it would have killed me.

We went down a country road, just slightly off the main road. Another temple, just being opened up, with another enormous key. We had just sent a happy birthday video to Juniper, Param joined in too. So when we were at this temple, he said we should ask the holy man to pray for our granddaughters. Strangely moving!

Param took to a Chettinad Palace. On the way he explained the area was rich with millionaires. The palace built at the turn of the last century represents the wealth of the merchant bankers at that time. Constructed from Italian marble, Belgian glass, and Burmese Teak.

This area continues the be an enclave for millionaires. Many of the 10, 000 mansions in the area are locked or abandoned, as the newer generations have moved abroad or to Indian cities like Madras.

The most exciting thing for us was seeing our first monkey, as well as a zebu cow. The cow’s hump has a ‘solar pulse’, or nerve, which absorbs the suns energy.

It was particularly hot today and I think we were all flagging. Param must have noticed. He stopped the car, leapt out, rushed across the road, haggled with a roadside seller and came back grinning with three equal pieces of sugarcane. Sugarcane provides an instant energy boost, popular in counteracting the fatigue in the summer months. It really worked!

We were getting close to Madurai, known as the city that never sleeps. One of India’s oldest cities, a major trading centre. With this in mind we went to the large bustling Mattuthavani flower market, close to the hotel. It is supposed to sell 10 tonnes of flowers daily, and operates 24 hours a day, so is feasible.

Then to the hotel. Phew! JC Residency. Very, very opulent! Greeted with mint lime juice very tangy and energising.

Absolutely amazing. We really recharged our batteries and then went out into the bustling, crazy night of Madurai.

I had found a restaurant right up my street, House of Paneer. I was in my element. The portion sizes are so big here that we just shared a main. Delicious!

Buttery masala paneer with kashmiri paratha. We walked there but got a tuk tuk back, the driver had worked as a driver in Hyerperdad, at the American embassy but COVID put paid to it

He said he liked Americas but not Trump. Not Trump at all!