After a hiatus of 39 years I am on my way back to Berlin to celebrate New Years Eve for the second time in my  life. I first travelled to Berlin in 1986, at a time when things were certainly very different, technologically, politically, in just about every way. Although the East/West tensions are still here, the physical presence of a wall has long gone.

My university boyfriend was having his year abroad and in the throes of love, I planned to travel over to see him after our first term apart. As with most things, it didn’t go exactly to plan, in any way, shape or form. in some ways it wasn’t completely  unexpected but in others, I would  never have imagined how bad it  was.

To try to get the money for the trip I had told a substantial lie. Barmaids got about £10.00 an hour at the student union bar, but somehow I found out that bouncers got £15.00 upwards. It was a no brainer! Armed with a level of confidence, that has been eroded over the years, I spoke with the grumpy Scottish manager, Jock. Conversations were always tricky with him, as he was difficult to understand at the best of times. I want to be a bouncer, I told him. He looked me up and down suspiciously, what experience have you got? (or something like that!)

I hadn’t expected to be asked any questions, such was my unwavering belief in myself. Staring him straight in the eyes, I talked about my fictional expereince in martial arts. I was a regular at the gym, etc, etc. I don’t think he knew what to make of this stumpy 20 year old in front of him, but I was taken on a trial basis.

I had to dress for the job, tuxedo, bow tie, white shirt and finished off with black boots.  I think putting this persona on helped me get into the ‘zone’.  It went well, very well and I was taken on  permanently. I was the first female bouncer in Bangor apparently. There seemed a bit of distrust from the other male bouncers, edging into their territory was definitely not the thing to do at the time.

A turning point was when another bouncer, Animal, had a ‘play’ fight with me. I had proven my worth by physically ejecting a well known drunken boxer, Dave Davies from the student union. It wasn’t difficult to do as he  was paralytic but not before he had grabbed various places on my body he shouldn’t have. I was now  welcomed into the fold, with a few jabs here and there. I never  found out why he was called Animal, but his arms did seem to swing towards his knees.

So a career was born, promoted or maybe on reflection demoted to being backstage security, for the likes of Pauline Black, Divine, Gary Glitter and many more. Money accumulated and I got my flight booked to go to Berlin, mission accomplished!

My friend Babsie also decided to come too. There were no cut price airlines all those years ago, nor the number of regional airports. We were waved off from the bus station at Runcorn Shopping City, hopping on a National Express bus heading to Heathrow. Timings weren’t great and luckily Babsie had family nearby that we could stay with.

Heathrow was mind-blowing, it was massive, the nearest I had come to flying was when we would go to Liverpool Airport to watch the planes take off and land. This would be my first flight, secretly I was glad of the moral support. It was all so’other’ and so out of my comfort zone. One recollection was on the wayback being pestered in the actual airport by taxi drivers, purportedly offering very cheap rates. Even I was street wise enough to understand that this was not the case.

I was so excited to be seeing my boyfriend again. Studying English I had the tendency to imagine sweeping romantic gestures, forgetting that much of literature is based on tragedy. As the French writer Montherlant wrote, ‘happiness writes white’, happiness lacks the the stark contrast for great storytelling. I don’t think I am a great storyteller but there is definitely a nugget of truth there. 

It felt so ‘adult’ to be embarking on this trip, so many firsts. We arrived in the night, hit immediately by the freezing temperatures. Colder than I had ever expereinced in my life. So cold that it gave me a headache or a  brain freeze. It was the December after Chernoybl and the temperatures had fallen significantly across Europe, I don’t know if the two things were linked but in my head it always felt there was a correlation. 14cm of snow had fallen on the 24th  December, even by Berlin standards it was a memorable winter cold snap.

Babsie was staying elsewhere, so we sorted her out first, before  heading to his flat. By this point we had been traveling for nearly two days, with little sleep or food. Whatever I had envisaged didn’t materialise. He had a tiny, tiny room. Threadbare and even colder than outside, if that was possible. He had cooked brown rice and I think lentils. Not exactly the food of love! I think I could have cried but probably abstained as undoubtedly I would have had to chip off the ice from my cheeks.

A meagre source of heat was in the corner of the room, a Kachelofen, a tiled small oven. I can’t remember if there was any fuel, I think a lot of paper was crammed into it. At the time I remember being told it was minus 25. Despite being exhausted I was barely able to sleep. Hardly any covers and the night plunging the temperatures even lower.

Having eventually nodded off, we were awoken by hammering at the door, it was around 6 in the morning. The landlord towered over us, quickfire angry German spewing from his snarling face. I had no idea what was being said, I had very, very basic German, having been taught by Miss Gumbleton for a year. I knew how to ask for the chemist, that I had a dog called  Lumpi but very little else.

What I did know is that he was angry, very angry and very menancing. The room had been sub-let to my boyfriend. We were given minutes to pack up and leave, trudging through Arctic chills to find somewhere to stay. Luckily our friend Sara was also in Berlin for a year, so she helped us out. But is wasn’t great!

Underfoot was icy, sliding around precariously dodging the strings of feuerwerks-kette (firework strings) thrown from the Altba, the  old buildings still standing from before the second world war.  Each time accompanied by squeals of laughter. It felt like a war-zone.  Also although I am painting myself as a bit of a victim, I brought a lot of on myself. But of course with the power of internet, hindsight is a wonderful thing! I hadn’t really dressed for Berlin, there is one photograph that still exists of me standing by a large door at the bottom of the apartment block. Mustering a smile of some kind. Wearing thick black tights, a threadbare Indian Summer cotton skirt and a jumper full of holes. 1980s chic or what I thought was ‘cool’ but definitely not the right attire for Berlin. Before coming here this time I have studiously studied lots of weather sites, a lesson learnt!    

Anyway, romance and any feeings I had for him were being sorely tested. It was not what I had signed up for, in my imagination I had conjured up delicious food, a comfortable bed, etc, instead it was the polar opposite.

Yet, despite this, I fell in love with Berlin from the beginning. I had never been anywhere so exciting, vibrant and edgy in equal measures. Having visited there a number of times now, I am never disappointed.

There were good memories and funny memories, but it did spell the end of our relationship. But something good came from it, a lifelong love of the city.

I stayed in Kreuzberg at the time, a place like no other I had ever been to. A poor area of of West Berlin directly under the shadow of the Berlin wall. The physical reality of the Cold War a daily pervasive prescence. An area full of diversity, political activism, squatters and artists.

I had been advised to bring a bag of 5 pence pieces. This was really  good advice. Our 5 pence pieces were the same size as the pre-decimal shilling. So many vending machines on every street corner, station etc, selling all manner of goods, could be purchased for 5p. It was fantastic!

Of course at the time Berlin had been sectioned off, East and West Berlin. A visit to Berlin would not be complete without a visit to the Soviet sector, seperated by the infamous wall.

It was a very involved process, subjected to strict procedures and surveillance, a tense atmosphere, armed guards, watchtoweres and overall a feeling that we would be stepping into a very different world. 

I seem to remember having to change £25.00 pounds of West German marks into East German marks. This could be reconverted and it also couldn’t be taken out of the country. This was problematic as it was literally impossible to spend it. For years I had piles of postcards that I had bought from Museum island. The shops had very little in things and nothing really worth buyng. One of everything, no ranges.

Although physically so close to the West, Mitte was grey, quiet and so different and the feeling of surveillance.

We met young East Berliners our age, headed to a bar and basically the rounds  were on us. The only feasible way of getting rid of the money! A vibrant sub-culture was developing from the grey crumbling ruins. I didn’t realise how brave they were, the Stasi, the secret police, creating a very real threat. Neighbours ‘ratted’  on neighbours, spied on them and informed to the Stasi. Looking back there was a real chance that amongst the group was an informant, as it was estimated that one in every 6.5 citizens were informers. 

Other memories are hazy but a lot of the bad memories are more present. But that is how the brain works, the neural wiring causing a more vivid capture of events, linked to our evolutionary ‘negativity bias’. But is hasn’t stopped me coming back 6 times and forming happier memories and ready to make more!

We had baked beans on toast this morning, I think the beans had a very high sugar content, so I balanced it with spicy Korean soy paste. A very tasty start to the day!

There are many convenience stores near our place. Nice to CU, 7 Eleven etc. You have to go to each one to get what you want, because it is impossible to get everything you want in one place. CU is great and very friendly and helpful. 7 Eleven is just on another level. When we see the man we groan and wish it was his female colleague.

He isn’t happy, he seems very depressed. The first time we stood by the counter for ages and eventually had to shout hi,in as pleasant but assertive way as possible. The next time he was asleep, not just a quick doze but utterly dead to the world. We could have left and tried somewhere else, but it was at the end of a tiring day. So, we woke him. Us smiling apologetically, him with zero emotion on his face. How dare we shop in his shop!

Again last night it was the same! He literally hates his job!
On the flip side the owner of CU ran after us with a packet of Doritos, free as part of an offer. The polar opposite!

We had a great tea with vegetables from the market, we are really finding our feet. It’s always the way when it’s the last day or two, everything slots into place and makes sense. We got to the National Museumof Korea in super quick time, in fact before it opened. It seemed like everyone in Seoul had the same idea, as the queue literally snaked on and on. We sat on the steps, waiting and waiting, but it seemed endless. The weather isn’t suitable for hard-core queuing.

We just waited, but it got worse, not better, so it seemed a good time to write my ‘blog’

Yesterday, on the way to see the Nanta performance, a monk stopped me on the street, gave me a gold looking trinket, grabbed my arm and put a bracelet on. It felt like divine intervention, the gods forgiving us for the restaurant debacle. Thanking him profusely, I started to walk away. But he stopped me, wanting a donation. I am so stupid, I fell for it! Saying I had no money, which was true because we were about to go into the bank. He then got a little pocket book, lists of names with the amounts they had given. Handing it all back, sadly! It wasn’t divine intervention, but a naughty monk on the make.

I also remembered seeing our first homeless people here, in a partially closed underground. We hadn’t seen anyone before, considering it’s a city of over 10 million. The percentage of homeless is 0.0026 percent. The thing that struck me was that even in a situation like this, how orderly and self-contained they seemed. Along a wall, their neatly folded cardboard boxes, which they slept on. Perhaps because it wasn’t so apparent as other places we have visited, it seemed more shocking. I thinking sound patronising so I will stop there.

The queue just didn’t stop, half an hour later. We carried on sitting on the steps, hoping at some point it when calm down. But every time we looked up, it had grown longer still!

It wasn’t going to change, so we went up and started to queue.

The Koreans really know how to queue. It was like watching a carefully  choreographed production. Way beyond anything in the UK! In Korea, there is something called the waiting culture. There is even the belief that if something has to be queued for, it has to be worth something.

Anyway, after all that, we got in surprisingly quickly, much quicker than expected. Phew!

The queues may have been because their special exhibition about Oceania was free that day.

Being quite nerdy, it was very interesting seeing artefacts that you wouldn’t normally see, or if you do, not the range.

Several robots cruised along each level, offering help. We did try but to no avail.

We saw more Buddha’s than you could shake a stick at!

This wasn’t all of them, so many from different eras and places.

We went to the special exhibition called Mana Moana, Arts of the Great Ocean, Oceania. It was fantastic!

There lots of immersive exhibitions, where we watched paintings coming alive in front of us on a 60 metre wide and 5 metre high panoramic screen. Visitors are invited to a fantastic journey into paintings. Digital videos projected on a massive panoramic screen. We watched Rivers: A Prosperous World Unfolds in Nature. It was so  vibrant and colourful.

I don’t think we saw the whole of the museum, but we gave it our best shot. Moving from one country to another.

Then onto India…..

For my last ‘blog’ for some unfathomable reason my tablet or app weren’t behaving. Sitting in the airport, on our way home, I didn’t have the patience with it. I tried several times and drew a blank.The museum was great! We went to market and I bought veg from woman who had studied at Birmingham University, she was so happy to meet someone who had studied there too. Walking out of the shop, she followed me, waving and smiling.The owners of where we were staying insisted on taking us to the train station. It was a bit of a journey to say the least. Initially gridlocked, which was so lucky as I had left my phone in the room. Pete was able to run back for it, the man was do lovely about it all. He got us to the station, parked in the car park, got our luggage out of the boot, took two rucksacks and gesticulated for us to follow him. He showed us the lift to the platform. Would not accept any money at all. After much thanking on our part and head bobbing on his, he left.So the holiday has ended, our trip probably not everyone’s idea of a break, but storing up all these great experiences and the people we have met on the way, this is what makes it worthwhile!

I woke up this morning and remembered our trip up  the Lotte Tower. While we gazed over the skyscrapers below, we saw a number of birds of prey, which looked like possibly falcons. It seemed so strange to be up so high, and them being even higher. It was beautiful to see, that amongst all the concrete and glass, nature still prevails.

Getting close to the end of the holiday, we still had a few things to tick off our list, which was quickly going down.

One place on our list was the Bukchon Hanok Village, a must see on any sightseeing list for Seoul.  900 traditional houses, many still occupied by families.

The houses over 600 years old, with beautiful architecture. 

It was very beautiful, but also very uphill. As it was slightly overcast, the humidity was really overwhelming at times.

Some of the houses have been chnaged into galleries and cafes. We went to a gallery/cafe and had pink plum iced tea, which was very welcome. We chilled out for an hour there, as it was very calming and had air conditioning!

We wandered around a bit more, taking photographs and then went to the Oriental Culture Museum, which also housed the Tea Museum and  a vibrant garden. It did cost but with the entrance fee you got a free drink in the Tea Museum.

I am beginning to really love iced tea, particularly as they have so many different flavour. At the museum I had pine needle iced tea, which was delicious. Added to that I got to see on a ‘throne’ to drink it!

A final look round before we headed down to the hill again, but down down the steep steps!

Being high up did mean we were afforded amazing views!

We left the village where we shouldn’t have done, walking along a very ‘arty’ road. Although interesting, by this point we were both overheated. I was getting grumpier by the second!

I spotted a quirky looking restaurant, outside it had a very big notice saying vegetarian and vegans catered for. By this point I just wanted to sit down and have a break from the relentless heat, the air felt heavy and every step was a challenge for both of us. We ent up the stairs, although Pete was relunctant.

We scanned the menu and there quite a few vegan options. There was only one other customer in the restaurant. Having seen the size of the portions I asked for one dish. The owner got very irate, insisting we could only eat there if we had two dishes. We should have left then , but didn’t!

She brought the food out, at one point smashing a large bowl on the floor. The atmosphere was not great and added to that the man in the corner was slurping his noodles at a high level of decibels.

Pete started eating his food, and his face changed, it seemed as though he had been given dried shredded octopus or something similar. We told the woman, who kept  saying ‘pescatarian’. We kept shaking our heads. She stomped over, saying sorry, and grabbed the food and headed back to the kitchen. We didn’t know what to do, our appetites had dwindled considerably. The language barrier seemed unsurmountable, the man in the corner, oblivious, slurping louder and louder with gusto.

Perhaps we took the easy option, although at the time it did’t seem it, we walked out. Pete had got alot further than me down the street. I didn’t want to look back, asI didn’t want to see the little Korean woman running after us! I am not certain how much we achieved in international relationships that day!

We walked quickly down the road and saw a convenience store with picnic tables outside. So, feeling that we may be safe we had an impromptu picnic.    

Not exactly the best! We planned our next move and looked up the route. There was  a bus stop next to a police station. Unbeknownst to  us the police station was next to the convenience shop! At the same time as that realisation I saw a police car coming down the road from where we had been. Lights were flashing, and I was certain that this wasn’t going to end well at all. It wasn’t like we blended in with the environment!

When the polce car passed us, I let our a heavy sigh! We wouldn’t be locked up in a cell and the key thrown away. But not taking any chances, we jumped on the next bus very quickly, heading to the market.

The rest of the day had drama of the right kind. We had booked to see Nanta, described as a culinary Stomp type experience.

It was utterly fantastic! A bit of acrobatics, lots of playing of music using kitchen implements, slapstick. The audience was made up of lots of different people, Germans behind us, small children. It just worked for everyone, it really was a great experience!

Yesterday, when we went to the Unification Village we were given a free sample of rice wine, known as Makgeolli, a traditional alcoholic drink with a milky, off-white appearance and a slightly sweet, tangy, and bitter taste. Pete hated it, I liked it, but it was very strange tasting. We didn’t buy any, but I was tempted.

Today, we decided to go to the South of Seoul, over the river,far more affluent. We walked through Namsan Mountainside.

We never saw the comfort women memorial, even though we walked 35 metres. The comfort women were women subjected to sexual slavery during Japanese occupation. There has been some argument between Japan and Korea about it.

It was so green and lush on the mountainside, the constant sound of cicadas, deafening and otherworldly.

We passed the air coolers Pete had seen in Busan, and we had quite a bit of fun with them! It really fluffed my hair up!

We went to the Starfield Library in Gangnam. With bookshelves towering over 13 metres, spread across a far distance. It was amazing! We had a relaxing stop with cake and soaked up the chilled vibes.

We went for a bit of a shop, enjoying the air conditioning. As ever, my phone pinged with weather warnings.

We were passed by a very busy robot!

Outside the mall, we found the Gangnam hands dedicated to the Korean singer, Psy, who wrote “Gangnam Style”. I still have an earworm of the song in my head still!  The idea of the song was to parody the flamboyance, narcissism, and ostentatious wealth he felt had become prevalent in the newly rich country – epitomized by the youth who hung around the ultra-rich district of Gangnam, known locally as the Beverly Hills of Seoul. It had billions of downloads and put Korean music on the map, apparently. Don’t know but I thought he was from the Philippines, so that went over my head.

Pete got very giddy!

It really was very ultra rich. The shops were all high-end, felt quite out of place.

Yet again, we saw fruit with eye-watering prices!

When we get home, I am going to go wild eating every fruit and vegetable you can name!

The mall almost seemed like the Trafford Centre.

We were next to the Lotte World Tower, the 6th tallest building in the world, 555 metres tall, with 124 floors. We went up it, because it isn’t just about going to the top, there is always some kind of dramatic light show.

Not to scale!

So, up and up we went. Then, after the lift, there were several escalators, to the very top. Ears popping!

There were artificial flower displays on the last few flowers. There is so much posing to get the ultimate perfect snap. There is a lot of pressure on Korean women to project the right image. It’s to do with branding. I decided to try my best posing, didn’t really work well.

Looking at the bustling city below whilst someone played House of the Rising Sun on the ‘busking piano’ was surreal.

When we passed the Grand piano, I threw caution to the wind and a tinkle of the ivories. It is very lucky that my rendition of the Funeral March doesn’t seem to be known here. I do worry about myself sometimes. As I got up to leave, the man who was playing earlier leapt back on and played House of the Rising Sun again, with added flourishes.

The art gallery was on the 7th floor. We were in some sort of groundhog day, pressing 7th floor but arriving higher or lower,  but never the 7th floor. At one point, we thought it wasn’t working as it just stopped. Luckily, it started again, but again, not to the 7th floor. After much going up and down, down and up, etc, we were told it was closed for refurbishment. But we had spoken to several people who worked there, who didn’t tell us.

We did see art though, in other areas of the plaza.

We travelled to Hongdae in the late afternoon, the vibrant and artistic university district. We were wild! We went to a laid-back cafe, playing laid-back jazz. We played a few games of backgammon, 2 – 1 to me!!! I was a bit ruthless at times, prompting Pete to say I was quite competitive.

I love backgammon, and I love this travelling set Annie got us!

We saw some interesting dance moves as we walked around.

We also passed a few ear piercing places. Pete decided to have one of his old healed up ones re-pierced. I can’t believe how quick it was, or how painless it seemed.

Homeward bound and a cold beer, perfect!

Today we planned a trip to the DMZ, the demilitarised area, separating North and South Korea. I never thought when I studied the Korean War for O Level history, I would visit this area of the world. I remember snippets, but it all sounded very confusing, and now looking back, it wasn’t because I was stupid, but it was and continues to be a very complex situation. If  only I could  reassuremy 16 year old self!

We were off to a flying start, finding the coch without any issue, tutting under our breath at newbie stranglers!

We were the first to board the coach, it helped that we had booked the later trip.  Otherwise we would have been very blearly eyed this  morning.

The temperature was already ridiculously high. I now know what the Korean messages I have been receiving are, the ones with a haazard sign. There is  amjor incident with the weather situation here, it is officially a heatwave.

Even at this  time of the day it was scorching, it gradually  went up  to over 41 degrees by the afternoon, getting dangerously close to 42 degrees. I stopped obsessing after a while, there didn’t really seem a point.

On reflection on the day, we didn’t get to do all the thing we had expected to, but we did quite a few. 

Our first port of call was the Korean Penisula Ecological Peace Tourism Centre. Home to quite a few things related to the Korean War as well as that bewteen North and South.

We had time for a bit of a break here, diving into the air-conditioning. Also time to hydrate, with an iced hibiscus tea.

Our tour guide, Hana had amazing English, was warm and informative.  She  showed us the Mangbaedan Alter, explaining that there two major holidays for Korean citizens, which they spend with families. With many not being with their  families, as they were split from them, this is a place they can come and undertake rituals associated with the festivals, knowing that there family members are as close as they can be.

Hana explained that her grandmother was a twin, and that she had been seperated from her twin sister, Suki. This place gave her hope for reunification in the future. Sadly, she died last year and when Hana saw her on her death bed, she thought she was her long lost sister.

Another poignant part of the area was a fairground, for the children, or rather now the grandchildren who visit. So they have a place of joy, and also that there squeals of laughter may be heard on the other side.

After this we headed towards the Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), it is a heavily fortified strip of land running across the Korean Peninsula, serving as a buffer zone between North and South Korea. Established at the end of the Korean War in 1953, it is a 2.5-mile-wide (4-kilometre) area marking the border between the two nations. One positive outcome is that it  has become a haven for endangered species and the biodiversityis so wide ranging that it has accidently become a nature reserve.

This where  it got more serious, no photos, unless we were told categorically that we could. We had to go through a checkpoint, it remined me in some ways of passing to East Berlin years ago.  We  had to get our passports scrutinised, by a very , very young looking soldier.

There is mandatory conscription here, all males between 18 and 30 have to do military service. For women, it is whether they want to. Hana had completed military service, as a translator for the UN soldiers, who manage the area. She proudly showed us her uniform. 

Having gone through the checkpoint, the next stop was Tunnel Three. This is the Third Tunnel of Aggression, one of four tunnels discovered under the Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) built by North Korea for potential infiltration into South Korea. It is located about 52 km from Seoul. Discovered in 1978.

There was a toss up,walk down a very steep 385 metre tunnel,which was guaranteed to be cold, or stay on the bus. It was quite an easy decision,armed with a hard hat I went down. So steep! Then, a flat walk, ending just 170m from North Korea at the blockade. So close!

North Korea tried to say they had been coal mining, scattering coal dust to authenticate their story. It wasn’t true…..obviously.

We couldn’t take photos inside, so this isn’t mine.

I don’t know how I got up, but I did.

We could take photos outside.

The last uphill walk of the day was to Dora Observatory,on the South Korean side of the 38th parallel. On top of Mount Dora, it provides views of North Korea. Hana stressed that the glass was bulletproof. Again, there are no photos.

The benefit of a hot day was that it was very clear. We could see North Koreas’ flagpole, which was part of the flagpole war, which they won by creating the tallest one in the world, 160m.

We went to Unification Village, also small village, with 133 families. They follow Korean Law but are looked after by United Nations.

Famous for their agriculture, especially their ginseng.  Hana explained it was all organic as they didn’t want to use chemicals around the numerous landmines.

Had a sleep on the way back!

Today we meant business! We got a 5 day travel card for travelling round Seoul, the T Card also called the Climate card. If travel was this cheap everywhere, it would make the workd a better place.

It cost around £7.00, which is very good for unlimited travel for buses, trams and the underground!

We stopped off at a market and had a chilling drink, I had preserved grapefruit and honey on ice again,I am getting very partial to it.

The temperature today was 36 degrees, but with the humidity factor it was more like 43 degrees. We just tried to keep hydrated, walk in the shade and go into air conditioned places.

We were headed to the Palace and to a number  of museums in the area. Sometimes the transport systems are very confusing, but I really feel we are cracking it!

We passed a beautifully decorated temple.

Firstly we went to the National Folk Museum, that had a lot of outdoor things.

The stones are guardian posts – or sacred poles. They gave protection and also they were worshipped.

Pete said that I looked like some of them!

On the outskirts of the museum were several hanbok traditional dress hire. If  you wore it into the palace museum yougot in free. The cost of the museum was arounf £,2.00, but the hire was much, much more. Lots of people had got into the spirit, dressed up traditionally, clutching their mobile phones.

Luckily some of the museum was also inside, which also included thee Children’s museum.

It was really good, very interactive and interesting. Going through the rites and passages of Korean people, from conception to death.

I liked the interactive part about dealing with illness. It sounded  bonkers but actually  there was a great deal of substance to it.

Apparantly the starch in potatoes does help to draw out the heat in a burn, also very good for  acne and skin irritations!

Well…..at least it will take your mind off it!

It also dealt with marriage ceremonies, that sunded very ornate and involved.

The bride and groom each drink from half a gourd each, symbolizing their union as one. Before the wedding ceremony the bride formally greets her new in-laws, offering gifts, and receiving blessings. A fun part involves the parents throwing chestnuts and dates, which the couple tries to catch, with each representing a child.

Both the bride and groom wear the traditional Korean attire, the Hanbok. The bride’s Hanbok is typically red, and the groom’s blue, symbolizing a balance of yin and yang.

Pete had a go at traditional dancing!

Finally, they dealt with death, this funeral carriage was a real Bobby dazzler!

Next to all of this was the Gyeongbokgung Palace, the largest and most striking of the 5 grand palaces built during the Joseon dynasty. Built in 1395 by King Taejo. The smell of the wooden buildings was strangely lovely.

I was all set to head back to our apartment, but we saw the Seoul Contemporary Art Gallery. We had a choice, walk through the heat to the subway or get more air conditioning. Air conditioning won hands down. It was a fantastic place, really good as it had a top floor for children to be artistic.

There were some very good multimedia exhibits, too.

They were hosting the 2025 Experimental Film and Video Festival,their 22nd one. I asked a young women what was happening, she explained and offered us free tickets! So,that’s how we ended up going to a showing of Robert Beavers’ unique filmmaking. Not only that, he was attending and gave a talk. I felt like an imposter!

He was showing his early work, then later work. We saw the first half, but then they couldn’t get the second film up and running. It was really interesting. His films were dreamlike. There was one that was definitely homoerotic, which seemed at odds with the Korean conservative attitude to all things LGBTQ.

On the way, we  noticed we were passing Insadong. It’s is hard to pass places and not stop.

So our days stretch on. It’s a very arty area, we wandered round a makers market. We bought presents. We popped to Korea Mart to buy things too. Pete got some sweets that help with waking you up. By this point, we needed something!

Pete opened the pack, and he said they were just like menthol. So I dove in and grabbed a package, ripped it open, and tipped it in my mouth. At that point, Pete said it was like chewing gum. Whatever was in my mouth was not chewing gum! They were the things to keep the sweets dry. I tried to get as much out of my mouth, spluttering in the middle of the street. Pete was passing me water. For about half an hour after, little glass balls fell out of my mouth!

By this point, we really needed to get back, but yet again, we got waylaid, and we stopped at an award winning craft beer bar. Artmonster. The two pints helped us up the hill.

Today was a travelling day from Busan to Seoul. As the trains aren’t inflated and pretty much the same price all the time, we made a basic school boy error of not booking in advance.  It had been OK in Japan but of course this is Korea and it is different.

The bus came quite quickly, we weren’t certain if we would be allowed on,  as  it said no bulky luggage, which we had a plenty! But luckily, I think the language barrier sometimes helps, it is too much effort to argue, especially when they have to keep to their times.

Reaching the train station, getting the tickets, only  to be told that it would be a standing ticket only. So the journey would be standing all the way potentially.

We managed to get seats to begin with, but very quickly the train was rammed and we had to sit in the corridor. It was OK, as they had fold down seats. Pete and I managed  to  share one, but then an over zealous guard told us off!

Of course it was a busy train, lots of people coming to Seoul for the weekend.  But I  have never seen the number departing from  a train like this before, even in London.

Subway for two stops to Myeongdong, so we were getting nearer. But then I remembered I couldn’t find my purse, and got quite stressed. Both rucksacks have a lot of pockets, so there was a lot of searching. It was there!

The subway was equally rammed, and although by some miracle I had got on, Pete was behind me. Together with a group of other passengers, he was unceremoniously pushed on. Luckily only two stops but it was a palaver getting off too. But we did see the funny side of it.

We knew vaguely where we were staying but not exactly.  It truns  out e had passed the path to the flats several times. Up a very, very steep hill. 

  

This was the painting at the bottom of the hill. I think my happy place is when it is flatter! I think I am definitely fitter after this holiday.

At the top of the hill, the owner was outside doing jobs. He had the most perfect English we have heard so far in Korea. He grabbed my ruucksack and took us to our room. It had said it was on the first floor, but it was on the 4th floor. Oh dear god!!!

Anyway he was great and explained everything. Also here we get a free transfer taxi to the airport train. Not bad for £38.00 a night. 

At the bottom of the hill we climbed is the Vegan Kitchen, so we went there.

It was gorgeous! The salad was particularly good, which roast pumpkin and sweetcorn and lots of greens.

The area is very much a backpackers one, feel like the oldest backpackers in the ‘village’.  But age is but a number and I don’t ever want to slow down!

Pete went for another early morning walk, and I didn’t. He sent me lovely photos though.

Busan is huge. In fact, it is 770.17 square kilometres, so doing a day trip within Busan can take quite a bit of time.

We decided to visit Gamcheon Culture Village, still part of Busan, but a journey of about an hour and a half. The bus fares are very cheap, we travelled the first hour for just over a pound. Travelling through the main city centre. Although Koreans seem quite quiet, behind the steering wheel, it seems a different matter. The bus driver didn’t seem to ever take his hand off the horn. It reminded me of a nail-biting trip from Mekelle to Adwa, Ethiopia, when that driver was similar. You just assume it’s a life or death moment, but Pete said, looking out of the window, it was just that cars were going into the bus lane.

Forty stops later, we arrived at the next bus stop, getting on a small green minibus. I did wonder why such a small bus for a major tourist destination, but very soon, I found out. Snaking up a mountainside, with one sharp hairpin bend after another. At one point, there was a road rage moment, a car wouldn’t budget, leaving a truck behind us trapped and us not moving forward.

Eventually, the bus driver backed down, reversed slightly and then revved up the road so aggressively, the gear box felt like it would explode. It was calmer after that.

The Gamcheon Culture Village, also known as the Machu Picchu of Korea, although to be honest, I couldn’t see it! 

The history of the Gamcheon Village, located on a city slope, goes back to the 1950s when thousands of refugees from the Korean War from all over the country began living there, making it a large area of hurriedly built houses piled on top of each other on the hillside. Pete said it reminded him more of flavellas, the higgledy piggedly nature of it.

In 2009, students, artists, and residents decorated the village as a part of the Village Art Project, and the village grew into a colourful artistic place nestled into the hillside.

A well-deserved drink made with preserved grapefruit when we arrived. It was delicious, the owner gesticulating that I should twist them and eat them. I would like to try to make them at home.

A lady from the tourist information insisted on taking our photo with the village in the background

She entreated us to see the Little Prince and The Fox statue, we didn’t find, but did see lots of images linked to it. The story is very popular in Korea because of its themes of love, friendship, and imagination. They see it’s about finding joy in simple things.

Because the village is seen as a symbol of rebirth and resilience, it has adopted the story as its own. A place of new beginning, overcoming adversity, and finding beauty in unexpected ways and places.

Of the 9000 residents, only 120 are resident artists. Along the way, some houses had art installations in between people’s houses. Notices around every corner reminding visitors that it was a real place, where people lived.

Try as I may, it was hard not to see where they lived, as many doors were open. The houses, although brightly coloured on the outside, had very basic. Old residents bent double, climbing up steep steps to their houses. Life looked hard there and not certain how much tourism has eased it. Although,  maybe this is the realities of life for people out of the city. But on the other hand, there were lots of innovative fruit and vegetable growing ideas.

The art installations were very good and quite thought-provoking. Although some of the descriptions sounded like a load of bollocks!

This one was about the flow of life represented by the wires. The mirros are there to reflect on yourself. I just liked the shapes the wires made.

 

Not  the best photo  of me, I look like I have 58 KK bra size! This was called The House of Hope II – at home. It’s about the light and energyyou get from being at home. I am very basic, I again liked the colours and shapes and appreciated it for that, but nothing more. Well, also how clever the artist was in making something so intrictae.

 

I really  liked this  one, eggs rolling  down various routes continuously.  Itwas called the Lively Space. The egg endlessly rolling along one path gettting lost in the rail lines, complicatedly intertwined with each other, the way we follow our passions and dreams. I ddn’t write that, it was  copied from the place!

It was great seeing art everywhere!

There were some very steep stairs there, like this one, called Stairs to See  Stars. It was called this by residents because people used to feel dizzy and see stars in they eyes when they climbed up, carrying heavy loads. It is  also called 148 steps. We did alot of walking that day, but we didn’t do this one!

Having walked to the bottom of the village, I really didn’t feel I had the energy levels of the older residents, who climbed up no matter what. Luckily, a bus came, and we had a less dramatic return to the city centre.

On the way there and the way back we passed the Ami-Dong Tombstone Culture Village. Another mountainous village that grew
during the Korean War, refugees embarked on a journey with nothing but basic household items. The civic officers handed out a small note to refugees who congregated to Busan Station that contained the following short address.“San 19-beonji, Ami-dong.” This was the beginning of the Ami-dong Tombstone Culture Village where they made their homes from tombstones from a former Japanese cemetery, which was abandoned after liberation and gradually transformed into a residential area when refugees settled there.

We stopped one the way back tolook round the centre a bit.

To be honest it was a bit of a blur, we walked down one large street, with handprints of  famous Korean actors. Having now watched a fair few Korean dramas, I may well have known who some of  them were!

We went to an amusement arcade but didn’t do very well. They were all grabbing machines, now if they had been 2p slots it would have been a very different matter!

Ages ago I  remember watching a programme about people going to special courses, to help them learn how to win on these machines. Why go to such lengths? Well, it seems popular with youg couples, and  what can be a better way to woo someone thanwinning a fluffy toy!

After one more photo opportunity, we went  to Yongdusan Park.

The park is located on a nearby mountain. Luckily, from this shopping sttreet, there were several escaltors going up. If we had walked it, it would have been a case of seeing many stars!!

It was very beautiful, with many swinging benches at the top, all taken by elderly Korean people, it seemed like a meeting point.

There was a duty free shop in the park. Popped into it, because we needed an air con fix. The shop was massive, and we were the only ones in it. We were literally swopped on to try different food products. It was really hard to pretend we were shopping, as all we wanted was cold air! That  said the honey butter almonds were rather special!

In the background you can see  Busan Tower, 120 metres high, nothing like the one we went to the other night. We decided to go up. It was a very great experience!

Going up the escalator, we got to see Busan in the daytime.

Then there were very odd photo opportunity moments, which we lapped up!

I loved taking these of Pete. Luckily, no one was around!

The next level was a virtual tour of Busan., in a submarine. It was really funny!

After all the fun and frolics, we went home via the market. As Busan is a seaside city, there is alot of fish etc for sale. What we have tended to do id face forward in the parts that have those stalls, of cramped tanks full of all the sealife imaginable. But today, as I did that, I saw something moving in my peripheral vision. I couldn’t help but look, I wish I hadn’t! An eel that had been skinned and beheaded, still writhing on the chopping board.

It was so horribe!!!

Last night, we had a lovely homemade meal, full of veggies, which was great. Washed down with some vino. It’s great to know exactly what we are eating. It just means that we are being more adventurous with the soft drinks we are buying and the sweet stuff.

Pete had decided that if he woke up early, he would go for a walk, out of the city.

I would have a lie in! Pete went for a walk to Bongnaeson Mountain, Bongnae, means a phoenix descending. The steep walk was helped with cool airblasters along the way.  He kept me updated with regular photographs.

We had a lovely breakfast, consisting of alot of fresh tomatoes.

After that we decided to go on the Haeundae Blueline park, an experience ‘where the blue sky and sea breath’ – no idea what  that means but it has a poetic  sound to it. There were different options but we went on the beach train, as there was an option to stop along the way of the way back. It was only 4.8km in length.

The beach train was more or less as cute. Inside they just had long  benches that faced  the window, so everyone had a view of the sea, which was quite novel.

We stayed on the train to the last stop, Songjeong Station. A more traditional beach resort.

Keeping as hydrated as possible, I  had a strawberry latte.

I had seen a sign by the waterfront about a temple, and it seemed to jog my memory from some of my research.

We are now very adapt at catching buses etc, so instead of walking the 2.5 km, we got a bus. When the bus arrived, I did a typical thing and fell into the bus, wriggling on all fours, laughing alot out of embarrassment, as people looked on expression less. I don’t know if that was worse, but after that an elderly lady gave up her seat for me. I felt quite ridiculous!

It was a steep walk to the temple, and I grumbled about why they couldn’t just builf them somewhere flat, always up a  mountainside, somewhere steep!  

Haedong Yonggungsa Temple, often called the most beautiful temple in Korea, particularly due to its unique seaside location, is also quite a climb. I think the heat seems to amplify the gradient, and everything seems more arduous. The temple is one of the few Buddhist temples in South Korea situated on the coast, and although a bitof  a slog, it offered stunning views.

There’s a legend that a Sea Goddess appeared in a dream and promised to bring happiness to the area if a temple was built there.

It’s believed that at least one wish will be granted at Haedong Yonggungsa,

Pete came over very spiritual!

A monk ( I think) was chanting inside the temple. Obviously we couldn’t take photos, but inside it was beautiful inside, with incongorous sacks of rice. Rice is seen as a symbol of devotion but also a request for a blessing. There were lots of places around the temple grounds to part with your money, so that ellusive wish is granted. 

Inside the shop there were huge sacks of rice, for those desperate for their wish fulfilment. It woud be good to know what they do with the rice, give to the poor?

On the way out we saw a line of taxis, I don’t normally get taxis, but it is cheap here. The first taxi driver shouted at us  alot, so we carried on. We got a taxi and it cost us about three pounds to get back to the station. This ensured no more falls, less sweating and more energy to do other things.

There was one part of the journey that was blocked off because of somehting that happened 40 years ago. Seems really odd that it is still shut off now.

A North Korean spy boat was sunk by South Korean forces in a clash in 1983. I wondered if the area had mines.

We stopped at the Haewol Skywalk. Haewol means ‘to meet the sun and the moon together , and enjoy the scenery’. A U shape that goes out to the sea, affording lovely views.

The central part was see through, so you  could look far down below. I wasn’t  a great fan of that! Pete went on it and  I stayed a bit away, trying to  look cool!

We went to the market again and got more provisions, I could get used to this!

Having got in the apartment, Pete went into lots of shops to find food for the next day or two. We have deided to DIY now, and cook more of our own food, as we have a really good kitchen and utensils etc. Also we may have exhausted all the veggie options!

The first night I made a lovely tangy/spicy aubergine and rice dish. It felt to be good in familiar terrority again. We have enjoyed the food here, but also there is something lovely about shopping and putting together our own food.

We are staying near a beach, so we went early in the morning for a dip. Although, we couldn’t until it was 9 and also only in certain sections, as many were allocated to surfers. Initally it was very annoying, but the waves were very strong, so I guess that it was a health and safety thing. Waiting to go in we saw a team of people walking down the beach, brushing up debris and putting it  in bin bags. I haven’t seen a beach as pristine ever.

Pete got knocked over by a strong wave, hit his head on the sand below, resulting in a massive lump and sand burn. It looked bad.

It’s been odd being in the minority, the only white faces travelling  round. In Busan there are a few more, Russian,German and French.There is somethingquite nice about walking round not understanding a word of anything anyone is saying, children being reprimanded, arguments etc etc, no idea!

After the beach, we went to the Haeundae Traditional Market, which is close by. It’s difficult seeing sealife alive in tanks, ready to be eaten, but there is an honesty about it. People can completely make the connection between what they buy and what they eat. It isn’t in bits under clingfilm. Where there is a definite disconnect.

Popped into Ralph Gibson”s photography gallery, an American art photographer, which was interesting. Free too!

I felt very lazy today. After all this I had time out. Busan is like a 24 hour city, so no matter what, you won’t miss out. It was great to have a battery recharge!

One of the views from our flat are a number of huge skyscrapers. We hadn’t realised you could go up them.

We found we could go up the Busan ‘X the SKY’. It’s the second highest building in Korea!

Going up a 100 floors was a bit of a giddy experience but eventually you get used to it. The part I didn’t like was ‘Shudder Bridge’ – walking over see-through tiles with a view a hundred floors down. I literally rushed over it, the idea of the tiles cracking open was  nonsensical but what if????

There were also artworks up there by French graffiti artist M. Chat, or Mr Chat.

It was mesmerising looking at Busan below, the hustle and bustle and lights.