MEXICO, MERMAIDS AND MOJITOS

So to the last few days of the holiday. The journey to Carmen Del Playa, Mexico from Belize was lengthy and at times quite uncomfortable. It was an early start, a ferry from the island at 6, a pick up from Belize City and onwards to the Belize/Mexican border. Luckily this time I managed to get through all the border checks without any drama.

No guns allowed inside. One thing that happened both going into Belize and into Mexico is a fruit and vegetable check. Anything like that has to be thrown away.

It took nearly four hours to get to the border. We stopped about an hour after this at a restaurant next to a lake. It was incredibly posh, a stark difference from Caye Caulker. A jazz band playing chilled out tunes, and a view of a beautiful multicoloured lake, known as Bacalar Lagoon, or the lake of seven colours. At almost 26 miles long it is huge, due the varying depths of the water it creates turquoise, indigo and dark indigo changes in colour. It was startling! Even better we could have a dip whilst waiting for our food. It was a bit like Rio Dulce when only a few of us took the chance of a cool dip.

It was so refreshing after having a journey which consisted of many bumps and a bit of metal sticking into my thigh.

We had a Caesar salad. I hadn’t realised this was a Mexican invention.

Back on the bus and another four hours of bumps and metal digging into my thigh.

The bus driver, Daniel Limon had a penchant for Abba, which seemed a bit incongruous with the surroundings.

It went much quicker than expected, which is lucky as I was beginning to feel quite stir crazy. On the map the distances didn’t look too far – over two weeks we have travelled close to 3000 kilometres, been to 6 places, three countries and had 20 bus journeys. Can’t remember the number of ferries etc. Bonkers!

Playa del Carmen our final destination was reached, all in one piece. A coastal resort along the Yucatan Peninsula known for its ‘laid back bohemian vibe’. By the time we reached the hotel it was already sunset. The hotel is basic but lovely, which was such an improvement from the last one which was the embodiment of loppy.

We decided not to go out with some of the group but explore by ourselves. We headed to 5th Street, which can only be described as three miles of insanity. High end shops, intermingled with colourful souvenir shops, scantily clad dancers of both sexes, street entertainers and a absolute cacophony of noise.

We stopped at a restaurant and had Caesar salad again, but it was made in front of with a great deal of showmanship and a flourish.

This was a first!

We were given three lots of free shots of tequila, so the journey back to the hotel was fuelled by this. We were encouraged to buy it, a hundred and seventy pounds! It’s the sort of place where you constantly feel you are being ripped off, primarily because you probably are.

The next day we had a mixture of history and swimming. Visiting the coastal site of Tulum and some cenotates.

The ancient Mayan ruins are perched on cliffs overlooking the Caribbean.

1. Tulum means wall in Maya, however, the town’s original name, Zamá (pronounced zam-MAH) translates as “Place of the dawning sun.”
2. It was one of the few enclosed cities built by the Mayas. With walls on three sides and the Caribbean Sea on the other, Tulum was built to be a fortress.

It was a fair walk from the drop off. People dressed up with an assortment of animals that you could have your photo opportunity with, for a price. There doesn’t seem to be much care for animals here. The night before we passed a place where there were two beautiful baby tigers being lined up for photos. It was disgusting. So when we were asked if we wanted a photo with a monkey, parrot or iguana, my answer was the same to each of them, I would prefer to see them in their natural habitat.

Not certain what the ancient Mayans would make of it all.

When we entered the site there were loads of iguanas of various sizes.

It was absolutely boiling hot, the hottest I have felt since arriving nearly two weeks ago.

The architecture was interesting as it had been modified over the centuries by successive generations.

Although impressive I was glad to move on to the cenotes. But not before exiting through the gift shop.

The cenotes are the natural swimming holes or caves in Mexico. Created by the collapse of porous limestone, revealing a magical subterranean world. You can find them across the world, there are many in this region of Mexico. They are truly amazing, we when to two cenote sites, each with a number of pools both open and within the caves.

It didn’t feel scary swimming through the caves and crevices, I thought I would be but I wasn’t, it was just so beautiful and calming.

The other group of cenotes were busier, full of Mexican families having their weekend fun. This one very much divided the opinion of the group. I liked it as in many ways we haven’t really linked in with locals. In the busier one the cenote were full of garra rufa – known as doctor fish. They are the ones that you could find in tanks that you could pop your feet in, much better here. They nibble away at dead skin on your feet. They weren’t much interested in mine but they loved Pete’s.

Another odd thing about the second cenote was a film shoot by the mangrove area in the cave entrance.

A group of mermen and mermaids being filmed underwater. Apparently they go round the world doing it!

The water was so cool and refreshing. The heat in Mexico feels relentless. The temperature has been a steady 36 degrees.

G Adventures, the company we are travelling with believe in ethical tourism and they support a number of local causes. One of these is the El Hongo Commuity Restaurant in Playa del Carmen.

Playa del Carmen has become built-up by mass tourism and this project takes travellers to see ‘the other side’ with a home-style meal at volunteer-run restaurant El Hongo. G Adventures groups enjoy a meal at the restaurant and tour the neighbourhood, learning about the vivid street art the kids created with support from this social enterprise.

Many children don’t go to school in Mexico, and as a result the opportunities that are afforded them can lead them towards the cartels in the area. This project helps to develop their artistic skills, as well as pride in themselves and the community they live in.

We had a lovely meal, but had to top it up later with tacos.

This was the last night with the group. I didn’t feel an immediate bond with anyone. Everyone seemed lovely but I realise as I get older that my tolerance for small talk is lessening as time goes by. The group was mostly Swiss, with someone from Germany and two from Austria. It’s been a great experience though, and one that has given us the confidence to go it alone in this part of the world next time.